December in Spain starts with two bank holidays; the first is Constitution Day, which commemorates the 1978 referendum and the transition from Franco’s dictatorship to democracy, but it is also St. Nicholas Day, so many families from other parts of Europe who live in the Costa Blanca will begin their Christmas celebrations on this day. A lot of people will take a bridging day that links this holiday to the 8th, which is the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, a very significant Catholic holiday celebrating Mary and the conception of Jesus. During this time, many towns and individuals will start to put up their Christmas lights and decorations and the season for Christmas markets, concerts and carols will begin.
One almost competitive tradition for all towns in the Costa Blanca when Christmas decorations begin to appear is the town’s Nativity Scene, known as Belen in Spanish and Betlem in Valencian. Most households will usually have a small version, but many of the community displays are truly spectacular. They will depict the scene of the nativity, also the surrounding area of biblical Bethlehem, and some will be mechanised. They will be prominently displayed in the town, often close to the Christmas market and town tree, and people enjoy looking at these incredible creations for hours. However, the baby Jesus is not the main focus of these onlookers but rather the effort to find El Caganer (the pooper), who is hidden somewhere within the display. The origin of the inclusion of this unusual character remains unknown; some have surmised that it is a symbol of fertilisation of the land, the pooper’s existence in most Belens may just have started as a cheeky prank.
The majority of Spanish families living in the Costa Blanca will enjoy their Christmas dinner on this night with Pavo Trufado de Navidad, Turkey with truffle stuffing or garlic lamb and seafood. Sweets will then be enjoyed, which include Mazapanes, Turon and Polvorones. The King’s Christmas message is broadcast live to the nation at 9 pm. After all this, the families will go to Las Misa Del Gallo (Rooster’s Mass) at Midnight, which is known by this unusual name because of the belief that a rooster crowed on the night that Jesus was born. In the early hours of the morning, an old tradition was to walk through the streets with torches and playing music, which gave rise to the Spanish name for this evening, Nochebuena. This is because of the saying that translates to “this night is a good night, and it is not meant for sleeping”.
This is not the main day for present giving in Spain; close family will give children “estrenas”, which is some money, sometimes this is given after the children have sung carols. Families will take advantage of the holiday by enjoying walks together, visiting friends and relatives and enjoying a festive drink in a bar before returning home to lunch. Christmas is often one of Spain’s quietest days of the year. Wherever you live in the Costa Blanca, you will see families out together enjoying the mild weather we so often have here during the Christmas period. Some towns will have their own unique traditions, and many people who live in Moraira will wash away any Christmas Eve indulgences by participating in the Christmas morning swim. Onlookers cheer the swimmer on and wait for them with celebratory Cava.
This is not necessarily a holiday throughout Spain, only in certain regions and locally companies will decide whether or not they will be open. In the province of Alicante, the 26th of December is not a national holiday, and many businesses will remain closed.
The 28th of December is the Dia de los Inocentes, which is very similar to April Fool’s Day. Everybody joins in with convincing unsuspecting innocent victims of bizarre stories; this is also done by newspapers and TV news channels. People also play practical jokes and buy joke items at the Christmas markets to give.
There is so much to look forward to when you live in Spain, and Christmas is one of those; it is less commercialised and very much focused on family and community. However, it’s not over yet! In Spain, the main event follows the New Year and is the celebration of Epiphany, starting with the arrival of the Three Kings on 5th January.
